
Position A holes are shown in blue;
Position B holes are shown in red.
Some Workshop Observations
Back in my shop, I took a long, hard look at the beadLOCK jig and its matching
moldings. The kit I tested was the top of the line version, which included
everything necessary to construct joints with both 3/8" and 1/2" thick tenon
stock. The first thing I discovered was both the plate and the two guide blocks
were made in the USA of hardened steel, so they’re as durable as they need to be
for years of regular use. Block machining was top quality, and the set screws
were big enough to grip and use.
The matching hardwood stock I received in my kit tested at 6
percent moisture, which is just about as dry as it can be in this part of the
country. That’s good — if the molding shrinks too much after assembly you’ll end
up with a loose fitting joint. The birch molding lay straight as a die on my
bench, and came packed in 12" lengths. The individual 1/2" and 3/8" kits each
contain two feet of molding.
One nice thing I discovered was the length of the tenon is
only limited by the length of your drill bit. The beadLOCK jig itself places no
limits on length. That means that, for small assemblies, you can use perhaps an
inch of molding, while in large joints like tables or desks, a three or four
inch long tenon can be used.
About the only thing I didn’t like about this system is that
the shim package, designed to offset the jig for stock that’s thicker than 3/4",
was made of plastic. I would have preferred steel.
Overall Impressions
I made several mortise and tenon joints in various species and thicknesses of
stock, all without any mishap. Each of the joints I constructed fit like a
glove. I followed the manufacturer’s instructions (beadLOCK is made by the
Journeyman Tool Company of Horicon, Wisconsin) and trimmed the tenon stock 1/8"
shorter than the combined depth of the two mortises: doing this, all my joints
closed perfectly under clamping pressure. It didn’t take long to discover that
such tight joinery doesn’t require a whole lot of extra glue. My suggestion is
to mask the joint to collect the excess squeeze-out.
Once the beadLOCK is clamped in place it’s a simple matter to
switch from position A to position B and drill the holes required for your tenon
stock.The system requires that you clamp the jig to the work, then lock the
guide block in place and drill three holes for the 3/8" stock (or just two for
the 1/2" molding). Then you loosen the jig, slide the block to the right and
lock it down before drilling the last two holes. I found the holes come out more
evenly if you drill the first set of holes twice before moving the block, then
slow the drill speed down on the second set of holes.
All in all, my impressions of the
beadLOCK system were overwhelmingly positive. This simple jig brings mortise
and tenon joinery within the reach of all skill levels, providing an inexpensive
way to produce perfectly fitting, repeatable, error-free joints every time, with
nothing but a drill and saw.
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