Custom-Made Picture Frames
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[Matting]
[Choosing Stock] [Ripping Stock]
[Edge Profiles]
[Miter Cutting Frame Members] [Gluing
Up] [Decorative Options] [Finish
Work] |
Everyone
Likes a Picture Frame
Creating custom picture frames for friends and family is a great gift
giving project that's sure to please even those difficult to shop for
gift recipients. Everyone has a special photo or keepsake they've meant
to have framed. Making a custom frame to match may be the best gift of
the season. Best of all, it's a quick and simple project to complete
with the right tools and set up. |
Start
with Matting
If possible, mat your intended photography or
artwork before cutting any stock. This will help you determine the final
dimensions of your completed frame, and the type of stock you'll want to
use. Although you can purchase pre-cut matting at your local hobby
store, using your own mat
cutting system may be more economical, especially if you have a lot
of family and friends for whom you're making frames. |
MatMate System |
Choosing
Stock
Next you'll want to choose your stock. Picture frames don't require a
lot so your scrap pile can often yield a treasure of possibility.
Carefully match the color of your lumber to the artwork or photograph,
and mat. It's the mark of a meticulous craftsperson and it's sure to
impress. If your scrap pile doesn't cooperate, there are dozens of wood
stock types available in all colors and textures. Tip: If you're
really in a hurry, you can use ready-to-cut picture
frame moldings.
Ripping
to Width
Now
rip your stock to width. Use 3/4" lumber (you can go thicker but
it's not a good idea to go any thinner), and rip it at least 1 1/2"
wide because anything less will look pale and weak--like you skimped.
And you wouldn't want to leave a bad Yuletide impression.
Using a
good table
saw and fence, rip enough length to account for the full dimensions
of your finished frame, leaving an inch or so extra at the ends for good
measure.
Rabbet
the Backside
Cut a rabbet in the backside of your lengths
to accommodate the artwork, matting, and backer board that will be
installed in the finished frame. It helps to envision the thickness of
the stock in thirds, which is why 3/4" stock works so well. The
rabbet should be no shallower than 1/2" and should remove no more
than 2/3rds off the thickness so that there is at least a 1/4" left
to profile an edge on the front side. (See Illustration 1.) A 1/2" rabbet
or straight router bit will typically take a 3/8" width of cut.
This is a good dimension that will create a 1/2" by 3/8"
rabbet in the backside of your frame. Although your table saw can be
used to cut this rabbet, a router
table may be a safer alternative. Chuck a 1/2" bit in your
router table and rout the backside of your frame members.
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The
Front, Inside Edge
Choose the style of molding profile you want along the front, inside
edge of your frame. Since there is only 1/4" of stock thickness
left along this edge, you'll want to keep this profile within a
1/8" tolerance to leave a strong enough edge within which to hold
the frame's contents. Leaving anything less will create a raggedy
looking edge or none at all. The profile you choose here should remove
no more than half the wood fiber from this inside edge, so it's
important to choose the proper type of router bit. Bisecting the edge
with, say a 1/4'' bit will leave just the right amount of stock and
create an attractively dimensioned inside border for your frame. (See
Illustration 2.) A cove
bit or classic
bit, for example, would do nicely. In working with narrow widths,
always use feather
boards on your router table. It saves fingers. |
Front,
Outside Edge
For aesthetics and eye appeal, a different edge profile works best along
the front, outside edge of your frame. If you've used a bead on the
inside edge, a Roman
Ogee, Classic
Roman, or Ogee
Fillet would look nice on this outside edge. Taking away no more
than half the wood fiber is a good rule for sake of both appearance and
strength. (See Illustration 3.) Tip: this edge can be profiled after
glue-up, which sometimes results in better looking corners. |
The
Back, Outside Edge
(Optional)
As an option, you may want to also profile the back outside edge of your
frame. To maintain structural integrity and good appearance, don't
remove more than half the remaining amount of stock from this edge
should you choose this option. |
Rockler Sure-Loc Miter Gauge |
Miter
Cut To Dimension
Once the frame members have been profiled to
your liking, you can move on to cutting your miters. Use this handy
formula to get the total length of each side:[Length
of Mat] - [width of rabbet]x2 + [width of frame]x2
Miters
can be cut with a power miter saw, manually with a hand
miter saw, or at your table saw with a miter
gauge or miter jig set to a 45° angle (for square or rectangular
frames).
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Trimming
to Fit
Dry fit your frame. If the frame members are cut well, they'll fit. If
not, a little trimming is in order. Don't be tempted to trim cut your
mitered edges, it could end up in disaster. Instead, lightly sand them
to fit with a stationary disk sander or use a miter
trimming tool. This will give you more control over stock removal.
Gluing
Up
Glue up your frame using a good web
clamp
or frame
clamp. Instead of standard yellow glue, a good epoxy
is best in this situation. It holds firmly against the end grain of the
frame members.
Let the glue-up set until the epoxy cures.
A
Decorative Option
As another option, you may want to spline the
corners of your frame. This is a decorative approach to frame joinery
that will be highly appreciated by your gift-giving recipient. The use
of a contrasting wood for corner splines--a dark wood such as walnut or
mahogany--can further accentuate this attractive element. A router table
or table saw with a V-jig
or Tenoning Jig can be used to cut accommodating slots for your
splines along the outer edge of each corner. A 1/8" slot works well
and leaves enough room on either side for a balanced look. Most table
saw blades cut a kerf of about this size. Always cut the slots for your
splines after you've profiled the edges with your router,
otherwise you risk routing into your beautiful corner splines when you
profile the edges. |
Sam Maloof Poly/Oil Finish |
Finishing
Up
There are many good finishing alternatives
for picture frames (which will not normally need to endure a great deal
of wear or stress). A good-quality oil
finish will achieve a nice luster, but wax
or polyurethane will also do nicely. |
Wrapping
Up
Now that your beautiful, hand crafted frame is complete you may have
trouble giving it away. If so, you'll need to make another. But before
you wrap it for Christmas, make sure to brand your signature on it with
your "hand
crafted by" branding iron because you'll be creating a
high-quality family heirloom that will be cherished for generations. |
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