Nordy Rockler founded Rockler Woodworking and Hardware in 1954. Over the
last half century, Nordy has spent thousands of hours in the workshop,
building projects and perfecting his finishing techniques. He's regarded
as a finishing expert, and has developed a number of Rockler exclusive
finishes. We recently met with Nordy to discuss the art of finishing and
some of his favorite products.Woodworkers
often say that finishing is the part of the process they struggle with
most. Do you share that struggle, and why do you think that is?
Nordy: Years ago it was more of a struggle because there wasn't a
variety of good products available. In the earliest times a person would
just use an oil pigment, wipe on stain, maybe a coat of shellac as a
sealer, and then a varnish, which maybe took 24 hours or more to dry.
Because it was so slow to dry you'd get a lot of dust particles settling
in it. Today we have such a multitude of products available it is much
simpler, especially once you get familiar with the products and use the
ones you like. Finishing is the culmination of doing a project. You can
put a lot of time and money into the material, and you can botch the
whole thing with a bad finishing job. Finishing is a critical part of
the whole project.
When
did you develop such a strong interest in finishing?
Nordy: Well, when we started the business. Finishes are a crucial part
of doing woodworking, so it was just sort of a natural process that I
became interested in it. Through looking at various lines and talking to
different salespeople, I learned a lot about finishing. I tested a lot
of products, and I still am today. To keep on top of it, you really have
to keep on trying them and testing them.
What
is the main key in getting a great finish on a woodworking project?
Nordy: Two things. First of all, you have to be very patient; don't rush
it. And the crucial thing is to test it on some scrap wood and make sure
you get the desired effect you really want. Another reason for testing
is you have a schedule of finishing materials; test them all the way
through the whole process, from beginning to end, and you will get a
really good feel for what the end result will be.
How
do you decide which finish to put on a particular piece?
Nordy: The type of project really dictates what type of finish you put
on it. If you're building cabinets or a bookcase, an oil-type finish is
very simple and pleasing, and very easy to repair. I wouldn't recommend
an oil finish for a dining room table, because you need more protection.
You need something harder, more durable, and waterproof. It all depends
on what you're building. It also has to do with personal preference. Do
you want a gloss, a semi-gloss, a flat finish? Does the piece need a lot
of protection? Does the piece need to match another piece in the room?
There's a lot of considerations.
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 What
are the benefits of shellac and Rockler's
shellac kits?
Nordy: Shellac is a different type of material, and not necessarily used
as a top coat. It's a multi-purpose product. It was very popular in the
1700s, and a lot of the antiques were finished with it because that was
the only finish available at the time. It has its advantages. It dries
very fast and gives you a nice appearance. But it does have its
drawbacks. It is not completely water resistant, and it can be brittle.
Sometimes it's the finish you have to use, especially for the furniture
restoration people who want to get a piece as close to the original as
possible. The pre-mixed stuff you buy off the shelf in a hardware store
has a limited shelf life. It's usually only good for six months after
you open it up. If you buy shellac in flake form you can mix it yourself
very easily just by mixing with denatured alcohol in different
proportions. If you want to use it for a sealer, or wash coat, you use a
thin solution, what they call a two-pound cut shellac. If you're using
it as a top coat or finish you want it a little thicker, you want a
four-pound cut. We came up with our new shellac kit because we had
previously been selling it by the pound, which is a lot of shellac flake
for the average consumer. So we packaged it into a smaller 2 oz. size,
and they can make a two-, three- or four-pound cut, whichever they want,
and it has a graduated scale on the container showing what proportions
of denatured alcohol to shellac to use. It simplified the use of it.
We're also going to be offering it in a half-pound container.
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 On
what projects does a woodworker want to use a polyurethane
gel?
Nordy: You can use it anywhere you want a urethane finish. Urethanes
give you a hard, durable, tough and, in most cases, waterproof finish. A
lot of people prefer the gel type for application as opposed to the
liquid type you have to brush on. It's just a question of personal
taste.
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 When
did you develop a relationship with Sam Maloof, who is regarded as one
of this country's greatest woodworking craftsmen?
Nordy: I met Sam about 20 years ago at the Southern California
Woodworkers Association. They had a big event. That was the first time I
met him, and I visited his home, which is really like a museum. He's a
great collector himself. He collects Navajo rugs, and he collects
pottery. He used to trade some of his stuff for Navajo rugs and pottery.
We have a nice relationship. Rockler packages Sam's
poly/oil finish. The mere fact Sam Maloof still uses it gives
credence to the product.Another
highly-regarded finishing expert is Michael Dresdner. How did you meet
him?
Nordy: I knew him because of his work. He's a very popular writer and
has written a couple of books. I met him a few years ago at a trade
show. We sell his books and he writes articles for Woodworker's Journal.
He's a contributing editor to our finishing department.
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 WunderCote,
a water-based, wipe-on polyurethane finish, is one of Rockler's newest
products. What are the benefits of WunderCote?
Nordy: It's so easy to use. It's in a flip-top bottle, and you just pour
it out and use a foam rubber brush over the surface. It dries in about
20 or 30 minutes, although our label says one or two hours. It doesn't
require much sanding (with 220 grit paper) between coats, then you can
re-coat it. I've done that in half an hour after I applied. it. What's
nice about a water-based polyurethane is it dry's faster, is very easy
to apply, and easy to clean up. What's different about our finish is
others tend to have a plastic look to them when they're finished. Ours
has a slightly amber cast to it so it looks more like a varnish finish.Is
there anything else you'd like to add about the finishing process?
Nordy: Like any skill or acquired labor, the worst part is fear of doing
it. Half the battle is just trying it. There's such an abundance of
products out there that there's something for everybody. There's just no
end to products. There should be something anybody can apply for a very
professional-looking finish.
We're
constantly on the lookout for new products that we're testing. We try to
have a real wide selection on the internet and in our stores. Usually in
each store there's someone that specializes in finishing, and then we
have classes at our stores. Mostly it's getting up the nerve to try it
and getting used to the products you're using. In a lot of cases it's
fun, especially when you have a beautiful project and you want to put
the finishing touch on it that enhances the whole project.
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